In my last post I mentioned my visit to Bisbee, Arizona. How and why
I ended up there is a possibly interesting story, one which you're
about to read.
I think I discovered Bisbee in an airline magazine, although it may
have been a travel mag instead. Whichever it was, I read about this
old mining town in the southeastern corner of Arizona that had been
given new life by an influx of hippies and artsy people. It sounded
interesting, so I kept it in the back of my mind for a year or so.
And then, late last year, I started thinking about those free
Southwest tickets I was accumulating. This last holiday weekend
seemed like a good time to check the place out, and maybe get a few
photos for my portfolio.
Bisbee is an hour and a half south-southeast of Tucson, so I flew to
Tucson on Friday night, stayed near the airport and made the drive
down in the morning. Tombstone is on the way, although the websites I
read weren't wrong in describing the site of the OK Corral as being a
lot less interesting than you might think. Even the original Boot Hill was
a disappointment, what with all the grave markers being replacements.
Guess the townspeople didn't realize the tourist value until it was
way too late.
But Bisbee was another story entirely. The historic part of the town
lies in a north-south canyon, with one street along the canyon and a
bunch of smaller ones trying to head into the hills on either side.
The town dates back to 1880, with the opening of an incredibly
productive copper mine. And it almost ended in 1975 or so, when the
last of the mining activity ended. Fortunately, those hippies, artsy
people and other folks looking for a nice place to retire showed up in
time to rescue Bisbee from the brink.
After driving the length of the town and then discovering the
nervous-making joys of driving into (and out of) the hills on two way
streets that aren't wide enough to be two way streets, I headed out on
foot to explore further. I spotted a building that had the word
Theatre painted on it and a banner outside announcing a show
that evening. It was some sort of homegrown musical revue, so I noted
the phone number and debated attending what was likely a cringeworthy
way to spend an evening. Still, it was a dinner theater. And I had
to eat somewhere.
In the meantime I needed entertainment. And at the south end of town
I'd spotted the entrance to the Copper Queen Mine, which advertised a
museum and tours. So off I went to buy my ticket, sign a release that
absolved them of any responsibility if I were to, you know,
die or something. And waited for the tour to begin. First
of course I had to be outfitted: miner's helmet, raincoat of the type
I haven't worn since elementary school, and a big belt to hold the
heavy battery that would give me a little light. Although, being a
"curse the darkness" kind of guy, that seemed superfluous.
And off we went, 1500 feet straight into the old copper mine on a
little train that went through a tunnel just slightly wider and taller
than said train and its passengers. Our guide was one of the old
miners, whose talk about equipment and working conditions was
fascinating, albeit a little hard to understand. Although I
certainly got the word silicosis clearly enough. That's the
local equivalent of the black lung disease coal miners get, better
known as
pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcaniconiosis
by
school children who are unimpressed by
antidisestablishmentarianism.
But I digress.
Meanwhile, back to the dinner theater. While waiting for the tour,
curiosity won out over inertia and I called the theater to see about
getting into that night's performance. Which I did. A few minutes
after being seated, I was asked if I'd mind sharing my table with
another single. Turns out Joy is sort of a force of nature in town:
owner of a B&B, past owner and restorer of two classic hotels and
involved with most everything of significance in Bisbee. I learned a
lot more about my surroundings than I'd ever have discovered on my
own, including the fact that the theater had once been the town's
Baptist church, the original theater having been turned into a real
estate office. I also got an invitation to breakfast at the B&B,
where the other guests and I learned about restoring hundred year
old buildings, before being taken on a fascinating tour of the town's
architecture, history and culture. (Oh, and the theater performance?
Both it and the dinner that preceded it were very good.)
I spent the rest of the day photographing all the sites Joy had
pointed out: the local cemetary, a trailer park that was full of
vintage vehicles, and more colorful buildings hanging on to the hills
and accessible only by long stairways than I'd have imagined in a town
ten times the size.
In brief, Bisbee was well worth the journey. As was the most-of-a-day
I spent in Tucson before my flight home. But that's another story for
another time.