Amazing how quickly we get spoiled. I left Reno behind Wednesday
morning, only to lose easy access to WiFi at the same time. So I have
some catchup to do...
I had a sort of plan. Well, more accurately I had a series of
destinations in mind, with a lot of miles in between. Instead of
heading home, I drove south: through Carson City and a couple of towns
along US 395, then back into California, up into the mountains and
down the other side to Lee Vining, next to Mono Lake and the eastern
entrance to Yosemite. I decided to spend some of my casino winnings
on a ridiculously quick visit to the park. And discovered something
I'd forgotten from my previous visit: that some of the most
spectacular views are outside the gates.
After my flying visit to the park and stops in Lee Vining for lunch
and gas (two separate stops, I'll have you know), I continued south
along US 395. I planned to reenter Nevada on US 6, the road that got
me back to California during the
December blizzard
conditions. Then I found what my maps claimed was a scenic route
that would connect with US 95 further south. They have a different
definition of scenic than I; aside from an almost complete lack of
other cars, it was neither more nor less interesting than the
(slightly) better traveled road. That other road did have one
interesting surprise: the remains of a mining town called Palmetto
after the Joshua Trees, which the miners mistakenly thought were some
kind of palm.
There's not a lot of civilization through that part of Nevada.
Arriving on the northern outskirts of Vegas around 8PM, I found a
place to stay and lost another few dollars of my Reno winnings. Next
morning I raced through town to Hoover Dam, took the tour (which
owing to post-9/11 security concerns is a lot less comprehensive than
it used to be; besides, it was insanely hot!) and then went
across the dam into Arizona. I had a new plan: take the chunk of old
Route 66 east of Kingman, Arizona, eventually get to Williams where
I'd find a place to stay and see about taking the train up to the
Grand Canyon the next day. I stopped at the Hackberry General Store
for something to drink and a few photos (it's a wonderfully tacky
place) and then found lunch a little further down the track at the
Hualapai Lodge in Peach Springs.
I haven't mentioned the weather, have I? Aside from the heat, that
is. Back at Lee Vining I'd noticed that the clear sky was starting to
show some rather dramatic clouds. Things got steadily more overcast
as I went along. And then gray. And by the time I reached Williams,
there was lightning and thunder and rain. And then clear. And then
more of the bright and the loud and the wet. But I have to say, it
did a nice job of getting the muck off my car.
Friday morning I was at the depot, ready to take the Grand Canyon
Railroad to the South Rim. It takes a little over two hours by train,
probably half that by car. Then again, I'd done plenty of driving the
past few days, and I still had the trip home ahead of me. Besides, I
like trains.
If you've been to the Grand Canyon, you don't need me to tell you how
spectacular it is. And if you haven't, pictures are a poor
substitute. (At least mine are.) I wandered along the rim, taking
pictures of the canyon and the condors and the hawks. When it started
to rain a little I went into the El Tovar Hotel for lunch. And by the
time it was done the rain had turned serious. So I followed that wise
old saying: "When the going gets wet, the wet go shopping."
Eventually it was time to head back to the depot for the run back to
Williams. The train people had laid on some entertainment: a train
robbery! Unfortunately, the bad weather kept them from arriving on
horseback. And train robbers in an SUV just don't have the same
panache, you know?
Back in Williams I got my car and took the Interstate back to
Kingman. I'd stay the night there and make the rest of the way home
on Saturday. Which I did, through the kind of heat that really makes
you question government denials about Global Warming. Have I
mentioned the heat? Yeah, I guess I did.